By Oleksandra Leiko, professional makeup artist working at shows in New York, Miami, and Paris
When you’re backstage at Fashion Week, time compresses into seconds. A model sits in your chair with barely prepped skin, and you have 7–10 minutes to create a look that must survive intense lighting, quick outfit changes, camera flashes, and an entire day of chaos. The usual “apply, set, and go” routine simply doesn’t work. Only makeup built like architecture will hold.
Here I share my tried-and-tested methods that have helped me keep looks flawless through countless shows and shoots. These techniques were shaped over years — through trial, error, and careful observation.
Myth: Long-lasting makeup is all about the right primer
One of the most common misconceptions is that staying power comes solely from the products you use. In reality, they’re just 50% of the equation. The rest is all about technique, texture layering, and understanding the skin’s needs. If the balance between hydration and sebum isn’t right, no setting spray can save the look.
My 5 Core Principles of Long-Lasting Makeup
1. Skin prep is the foundation
I always start with double cleansing, followed by light moisturization suited to the skin type. Only then do I apply a primer. Dry skin leads to patchiness, oily skin causes slippage. Balanced skin is already halfway to longevity.
2. Work in layers: cream to powder
I double up on textures — starting with creams (foundation, blush, contour), then locking them in with powder-based versions. This creates an inner grip effect, almost like the makeup is fused into the skin.
3. Targeted setting, not an all-over mist
Setting spray isn’t something I just spritz all over. I apply it where it matters — the T-zone, under the eyes, corners of the mouth. Sometimes I even press it in with a sponge. This mattifies key areas without making the face look “frozen.”
4. Brushes and sponges are architectural tools
I don’t smear product — I press it in. This minimizes texture movement. Especially for foundation: pressing with a damp sponge gives a long-wear finish instead of just a smooth one.
5. Reliable products tested in the field
At the heart of my long-wear looks is Estee Lauder Double Wear Foundation — a formula that survives heat, humidity, flashing lights, and location changes while still looking natural. I always set it with a mattifying powder — not brand-dependent, but texture- and technique-focused.
Mistakes That Became Lessons
There were moments when I experimented with textures. Once, for an outdoor shoot, I went with a radiant foundation. Under bright sunlight, the skin became overly reflective, and the photographer had to spend extra time correcting the images. Since then, I’ve become more mindful of choosing finishes based on lighting and environment.
My Backstage SOS Kit
I never go to a show without:
– blotting papers
– mini setting spray
– cotton swabs
– creamy concealer
– sheer pressed powder
These tools help me fix any issues without disrupting the overall look.
Final Thoughts
Longevity isn’t about piling on more products — it’s about making smart, intentional choices. Makeup should not only survive the runway, but still wow in the photos hours later. That’s my mission, every single day.
